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THE SWEET SIDE OF OLIVE OIL

Tea Mamut

The first thing that comes to mind when mentioning extra virgin olive oil is food and cooking. Since I grew up with it on daily basis (butter is used only with bread), my growth as a pastry chef was highly influenced with it. As fats in any form are one of the main ingredients in baking, I decided to get back to basics and use something I am most familiar with.
Croatian coastline is known to have many olive groves including my family’s. Each year all of us gather on the island of Korčula where we spend 3 labor intensive, but fun work days! It is very special for me to cherish something my ancestors have left and utilise it in my profession. I still remember the first time I came across an olive oil recipe in a baked good. It was something like a marble loaf cake which Alice Medrich creatively named Tiger cake in her “Seriously Bitter Sweet” cookbook. The unusual combination of olive oil, white pepper and chocolate triggered my curiosity - I decided to give it a try!
At that time I was still in high school and my passion for baking was just coming to light, so I wanted to try EVERYTHING. All of my family members, neighbours and friends were obligated to taste my sweet treats each day, both successes and fails. Tiger cake was one of my greatest accomplishments and it is still made in my family 8 years later.

My advice is to use a milder variety of extra virgin olive oil because it dominates the cake as the main ingredient. If the oil is too spicy and pungent it might overpower other components.
Here’s the recipe for the most dense, flavourful marble cake!

Tiger cake

adapted from Alice Medrich’s “Serioslu Bitter Sweet”

  • Makes one bundt cake or two loaf cakes60g cocoa powder
    200g sugar
    80ml water
    330g flour
    2 teaspoons baking powder
    1/2 teaspoon salt
    250ml extra virgin olive oil
    1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
    1/2 teaspoon finely ground white pepper
    5 cold large eggs
    250ml cold milk

Directions:

  • - Preheat the oven to 170C (350F), butter and flour the moulds.
  • - In a small bowl whisk the cocoa, 50g sugar and water until well blended.
  • - Mix the flour, baking powder and salt throughly and sift together onto a piece of parchment paper.
  • - In a mixer bowl using a whisk attachment, or with a handheld mixer, beat the remaining sugar, oil, vanilla and pepper until well blended. Add the eggs, one a time, beating well after each addition.
  • - Continue to beat until the mixture is thick and pale, 3-5 minutes.
  • - Stop the mixer and add 1/3 of the flour mixture. Beat just until blended, add half of the milk and repeat with the remaining ingredients.
  • - Pour 3 cups of the batter into another bowl and stir in the cocoa mixture. Pour 1/3 of the plain batter into the prepared cake pan, and top with 1/3 of the chocolate batter. Repeat until all the batter is used.
  • - Bake until a cake tester comes out clean, around 50 min.