Iće i piće

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Broj 16 Prosinac 2009.

Božićna priča ili kako je kolač zamijenio puricu

Dva su božićna broja za nama. Za oba purica je bila predviđena za naslovnicu. No prvi put ispečena purica nije izgledala najbolje, a drugi put istisnuo ju je bakalar. I kad smo se već poveselili da konačno stavljamo puricu na naslovnicu (uz pomoć naših susretljivih domaćina i njihove krasne purice iz peke Vuglec brega), stigla je jedna prava božićna ili, kao što ćete pročitati, priča Twelfth Night.

U rukopisnoj kuharici iz obiteljske ostavštine Bassegli-Gozze naš suradnik, povjesničar umjetnosti Goran Vuković, pronašao je recept za Twelfth Cake, kolač posvećen izgubljenom blagdanu. U suvremenom obliku materijalizirao ga je Gaël Majchrzak, pastry chef oliti slastičar iz restorana Gil's. Kolač smo vratili na ishodište, u palaču Bassegli-Gozze, na Gundulićevoj poljani, gdje smo u predivnom ambijentu (ljubaznošću Društva prijatelja dubrovačke starine), ambijentalno sljubili kolač s predivnim, svjetski raritetnim francuskim tapetama iz 19. stoljeća, ručno izrađenim prema motivima Dame s jezera u Rixheimu.

Nadam se da ne trebamo napominjati da se sve to dogodilo u Dubrovniku, a i da smo kolač na kraju sa slašću – pojeli! Kako to (objektivno) nismo mogli podijeliti s vama, darujemo vam barem ovu priču.

Spremili smo mnoštvo prigodnih tema, poput purice, fazana, majoneze, božićnog kruha, bakalara in bianco, zelene menestre, foie grasa, božićnog pudinga te čokolade, ali i slasnih recepata kako bismo vaš blagdanski stol učinili zamamnim i neodoljivim.

U ovom broju pročitajte intervju Jagode Bush s Haroldom McGeejem, autorom knjige On Food and Cooking, koju su mnogi prozvali biblijom kulinarstva. Ponosni smo što smo otkupili autorska prava navedene knjige za Hrvatsku te ćemo teme iz knjige redovito objavljivati na stranicama našega časopisa.

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